FAQs & Troubleshooting

Close

TOKYO

FAQs & Troubleshooting

FAQs & Troubleshooting

Date: 21/10/2015 ID: faqh00000004_000

Combination of fabric, thread and needle

navi About the Needle

navi Checking the needle

navi Fabric / Thread / Needle Combinations

 

About the Needle

 

The sewing machine needle is probably the most important part of the sewing machine.
Choosing the proper needle for your sewing project will result in a beautiful finish and fewer problems.
Below are some things to keep in mind about needles.

  • The smaller the needle number, the finer the needle. As the numbers increase, the needles get thicker.
  • Use fine needles with lightweight fabrics, and thicker needles with heavyweight fabrics.
  • To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 with stretch fabrics.
  • To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 when sewing character or decorative stitches.
  • Use needle 75/11 for embroidery.
  • It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight fabrics or stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may bend or break, which could result in injury.
  • Ball point needles (golden colored) 90/14 are not recommended for embroidery, as they may bend or break, causing injury.

top top

 

Checking the needle

 

  • Only use sewing machine needles for home use. Other needles may bend or break and cause injury.
  • Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and cause injury.
 

 

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

fig001

(1) Flat side        (2) Needle type marking

 

- Correct needle

fig002

(3) Parallel space        (4) Flat surface

 

- Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent.
Do not use a bent needle.

fig003

(5) Flat surface

top top

 

Fabric / Thread / Needle Combinations

 

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness.
Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

 

Fabric Type/Application Thread Size of Needle
Type Size
Medium weight fabrics Broadcloth Cotton thread 60 – 90 75/11 – 90/14
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread 50
Thin fabrics Lawn Cotton thread 60 – 90 65/9 – 75/11
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis,
Satin
Silk thread 50
Thick fabrics Denim Cotton thread 30 100/16
50 90/14 – 100/16
Corduroy Synthetic thread 50 – 60
Tweed Silk thread
Stretch fabrics Jersey Thread for knits 50 – 60 Ball point needle
75/11 – 90/14
(gold colored)
Tricot
Easily frayed fabrics Cotton thread 50 – 90 65/9 – 90/14
Synthetic thread
Silk thread 50
For top-stitching Synthetic thread,
Silk thread
30 100/16
50 – 60 75/11 – 90/14

 

Be sure to follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using an improper combination, especially a heavyweight fabric (i.e., denim) with a small needle (i.e., 65/9 - 75/11), may cause the needle to bend or break, and lead to injury. Also, the seam may be uneven, the fabric may pucker, or the machine may skip stitches.

Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.

 

Thread and needle number
The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.

Ball point needle (gold colored)
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

 

 

 

 

top top

Related Models

AE1700, AE2500, AE2700, ArtCity 140, ArtCity 170, ArtCity 190, ArtCity 200, ArtCity 250A, ArtCity 300A, ArtCity140S, ArtCity170S, artwork 10, artwork 19, artwork 20, artwork 22, artwork 22N, artwork 31, artwork 31SE, artwork 33A, artwork 37A, AS-40, AZ14, AZ17, BC-2100/2300, BC-2500, BM-3500/2600, BM-3600/2700, BN27, BN37, Boutique 27/37, BQ17, BQ25, Classic 20, Classic 30, Classic 40, comfort 10/12/15, comfort 25, comfort 25A/35A, comfort 40E, comfort 60E, CS10, CS120WT, CS-6000/6000t, CS70, CS-80, CS-8060, CS-8120, CX5, CX70PE, DS-120, DS120s, DS-140, DS-160, e15, e20, Elite 45, Elite 55, Elite 95E, ES-2000, ES-2020, ES-2220, ES-2420, FS100WT, FS130QC, FS180QC, FS-20, FS210, FS250FE, FS-40, FS-40WT, FS60, FS60s, FS70WT, FS70WTs, G20, GS2700, Hanami 17, Hanami 25, Hanami 27s, Hanami 37s, HC14, HF27, HF37, HQ12, HQ-17, HQ18, HQ19, HQ22, HQ-27, HQ-33, Innov-is 10/10A, Innov-is 100, Innov-is 1200, Innov-is 1250, Innov-is 15, Innov-is 1500D/1500, Innov-is 150SE/ 150, Innov-is 20/20LE, Innov-is 200, Innov-is 2200, innov-is 25, Innov-is 250, Innov-is 27SE, Innov-is 30, Innov-is 300, Innov-is 35, Innov-is 350SE, Innov-is 400, Innov-is 4000D/4000, Innov-is 450, Innov-is 50, Innov-is 500, Innov-is 5000, Innov-is 500D, Innov-is 55, Innov-is 550SE/ 550, Innov-is 55FE, Innov-is 600, Innov-is 650, Innov-is 670, Innov-is 900, Innov-is 950, Innov-is 955, Innov-is I, Innov-is Ie, Innov-is V5, Innov-is V5 LE, Innov-is V7, Innov-is VQ2, Innov-is VQ4, J14, J14s, J17, J17s, JK1700, JK2500NT, JK2700NT, JK4000, JK7000, JS100, JS25, JS27, JS-40E, JS-50CE, JS-50E, JS-60E, JS-70E, JSL15, JSL18, JSL-30, JX14, JX17FE, KD144, KD144s, KD40, KE14, KE14s, KE20, KYOTO, L14, L14s, L-15, L17, L-25/35, L-30/40, LK14, LK14s, LS14, LS14s, LS17, LS200, LS200S, LS2225, LS2225S, LS2325, LS2325S, LS250s, LS300, LS300S, LS3125S, LS350s, LS5555, LS7555, LX1400, LX1400S, LX17, LX1700, LX1700S, LX25, LX27NT, LX3500, LX37NT, LX500, LX700, M14, ML500, ML-600, ML-750, ML-900, ModerN 21, ModerN 210e, ModerN 27, ModerN 30A, ModerN 39A, ModerN 40e, ModerN 50e, ModerN 60e, ModerN14, ModerN17, MS-4, MS40, MS-5, MS50, MS-6, MS60, NX-200, NX-2000, NX-400Q/400, NX-600, OKINAWA, PE-300S, PE-400D, PS-3100/3700, PS-53/55/57, PS70, QC-1000, QS-480 Quilter's Edition, QS-960 Quilter's Edition, R214, RH127, RH137, RL417, RL425, RS100, RS100S, RS200, RS200S, RS21, RS-240/250/260, RS31, RS40s, RS45s, RS-5/7/9/11, SAPPORO, Satori 100, Satori 200, Satori 300, Satori 400, SL10, SM-340E, SM-360E, STAR 110/130E, STAR 1400, STAR 17, STAR 230E/240E, STAR 25, STAR 27s, STAR 35/45/55/65, STAR 37s, STAR 50/60, STAR 555, STAR 55X, STAR 777, Style 100Q, Style 20, Style 25, Style 30s, Style 35s, Style 80e, Style-40e, Style-50e, Style-60e, SuperGalaxie 3000/3000C/3000D/3100D, TOKYO, UJ417, Universal 17, Universal 25, Universal 27S, Universal 37S, Vitrage M71, Vitrage M73, Vitrage M75, Vitrage M77, Vitrage M79, X10, X14, X14s, X17, X17s, X4, X7, X8, XL-2120/2220/2230, XL-2600/2610/2620, XL-3500/ 3510/3520, XL-3600, XL-6040, XL-6053/6063, XL-6600, XN1700, XN2500, XQ2700, XQ3700, XR27NT, XR37NT, XR-65T, XR-6600, XT27, XT37

If you need further assistance, please contact Brother customer service:

Content Feedback

To help us improve our support, please provide your feedback below.
Step 1: How does the information on this page help you?
Step 2: €Are there any comments you would like to add?

Please note this form is used for feedback only.