FAQs & Troubleshooting

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Innov-is NV180

FAQs & Troubleshooting

FAQs & Troubleshooting

Innov-is NV180

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Date: 21/07/2017 ID: faqh00000004_006

Combination of fabric, thread and needle

Fabric / Thread / Needle Combinations

The machine needle and thread that should be used depends on the type and thickness of the fabric. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

  • The combinations shown in the table provide a general guideline. Be sure to sew trial stitches on the actual number of layers and type of fabric to be used in your project.
  • The machine needles are consumables. For safety and best results, we recommend replacing the needle regularly. For details on when to replace the needle, refer to Checking the needle.
  • In principle, use a fine needle and thread with lightweight fabrics, and a larger needle and heavier thread with heavyweight fabrics.
  • Select a stitch appropriate for the fabric, and then adjust the stitch length.
    When sewing lightweight fabrics, make the stitch length finer (shorter). When sewing heavyweight fabrics, make the stitch length coarser (longer).
    When sewing stretch fabrics, use a pattern suitable for sewing stretch fabrics.

Fabric Type/Application

Thread

Size of needle

Stitch length

mm (inch)

Type

Weight

Lightweight fabrics

Lawn, georgette, challis, organdy, crepe, chiffon, voile, gauze, tulle, lining, etc.

Polyester thread

60 - 90

65/9 - 75/11

Fine stitches

1.8 - 2.5
(1/16 - 3/32)

Cotton thread, Silk thread

50 - 80

Medium weight fabrics

Broadcloth, taffeta, gabardine, flannel, seersucker, double gauze, linen, terry cloth, waffle weave, sheeting, poplin, cotton twill, satin, quilting cotton, etc.

Polyester thread

60 - 90

75/11 - 90/14

Regular stitches

2.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8)

Cotton thread, Silk thread

50 - 60

Heavyweight fabrics

Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, etc.

Polyester thread, Silk thread

30

100/16

Coarse stitches

2.5 - 4.0
(3/32 - 3/16)

Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas, tweed, corduroy, velour, melton wool, vinyl-coated fabric, etc.

Polyester thread

60

90/14 - 100/16

Cotton thread, Silk thread

30 - 50

 

Stretch fabrics (knit fabrics, etc.)

 

Jersey, tricot, T-shirt fabric, fleece, interlock, etc.

Polyester thread, Cotton thread, Silk thread

50

Ball point needle

75/11 - 90/14

Setting appropriate for the fabric thickness

 

For top-stitching

Polyester thread

30

90/14 - 100/16

Setting appropriate for the fabric thickness

50 - 60

75/11 - 90/14

  • Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16)
    • The larger the number, the larger the needle. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer.
  • Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight
    • Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It may cause machine to malfunction.
    • The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. As the numbers increase, the thread gets finer.
  • Transparent nylon thread:
    Use a home sewing machine topstitching needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

 

Checking the needle

  • Only use sewing machine needles for home use. Other needles may bend or break and cause injury.
  • Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and cause injury.

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

image

(1) Flat side
(2) Needle type marking
(3) Flat surface
(4) Even
(5) Not even

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

The needles are consumables. For safety and best results, we recommend replacing the needle regularly.

Replace the needle in cases such as the four described below:

  • If an unusual sound is produced when the needle enters the fabric while sewing trial stitches. (The tip of the needle may be broken or dull.)
  • If stitches are skipped. (The needle may be bent.)
  • Generally, after completing one project, such as a piece of clothing.

Related Models

FS60X, Innov-is A150, Innov-is A16, Innov-is A80, Innov-is NV180, Innov-is XP1

If you need further assistance, please contact Brother customer service:

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